By Carol Davison | Photography by Coastal Captures
Saturday night in the Low Lights Tavern and the place is jumping with revellers of all ages enjoying a cracking night out in the oldest bar on North Shields Fish Quay. Its three rooms are packed and loud conversation and laughter mixes with lively folk music being played by a group of local musicians ensconced at a corner table.
It’s hard to believe that this much loved, bustling bar was lying derelict just twenty years ago. Originally built in 1657, the building is known to have operated as a pub from at least the early 1800’s. Its fortunes took a slide in the 1990’s when Scottish and Newcastle decided to let it go after a nudge from the Monopolies Commission, and it was sold privately whereupon it fell into a massive state of disrepair. Thankfully it was rescued and resurrected by a new owner in 2006 though somewhat controversially, it was transformed into a wine bar and its mainstay clientele, the fishermen, were discouraged.
The current owner, Glaswegian Danny Higney, has reversed this attempt to gentrify and he smiles recalling the quantity of champagne found in the cellar when he bought the place eight years ago. His aesthetic is far more traditional, and he feels it important that the Low Lights retains its heritage, helping to keep the rich culture of the fishermen and the fish quay alive. Explaining that he has no plans to modernise, he said, “I love it that people can stand at the bar and have a pint in the same spot where their grandfather stood and when they go for a pee, stand in the same place he stood.”
But the Low Lights is not just a haunt for local quay folk, and the place is a destination for great pub food which is described as honest fare done well. Their home-made pies, cooked from scratch in the kitchen, are legendary and they serve up to 800 a week. Though the meat pies are most popular, veggie and vegan options are also served. Danny recalls a group of lads coming in to have the hearty steak pie and mash to line their stomachs before a good session. “Just get a plate of chips,” he advised them, “have the pie and you’ll be ready for your bed!” Their Sunday lunches are just as popular with around 200 served each week. They don’t take bookings so it’s very much a turn up and see situation. If there’s no table free when you arrive, just sit back, enjoy a drink and good company while you wait – it’s all about relaxing explains Danny. With five hand pumped ales on offer, including the popular Low Lights ale and Bass, people are more than happy to do just that.
The thing which really differentiates the Low Lights Tavern from the other fourteen bars on North Shields Fish Quay is its music scene. Irish, Northumbrian and Scottish folk are favourites and though there are organised events several times a month with musicians such as The Black Corner Band, unplanned outbreaks of music from a talented core of regulars are just as popular. Instruments are lined up against the wall in the back room and Danny encourages these spontaneous sing-a-longs which are reminiscent of the traditional Irish bars he loves so much in Galway. The Low Lights also boasts one of the longest running buskers’ nights which is held every Monday evening with host Bongo Bob and of course it would be remiss not to mention the Fender factor. Sam’s connection to the pub doesn’t need retelling but is nonetheless part of the fabric of the place. His fans call in to see his Brit Award, repurposed as a beer pump, and to catch a glimpse of the man himself when they know he’s in town. His love of the pub is well-documented, so it was no surprise to learn that they regularly receive fan mail for him there – which they reassure is always passed on!
The Low Lights really is one of the gems on the quayside. It’s a step back in time with not a cocktail list or tapas menu in sight. Just a traditional pub with a great atmosphere, the warmest of welcomes and a very canny pint.
