Wander North Shields: A Day of Intriguing History, Stunning Views and Good Food
Explore the maritime heart of North Tyneside with this self-guided walking tour
By Tatjana @thats.tats
There’s a certain charm to North Shields, a mix of salty sea air, the chatter of fishmongers, and the hum of cosy restaurants, bars, and cafés. Once a bustling hub of shipbuilding and fishing, the town has proudly developed into a perfect blend of old-world character and modern vibrancy, where its deep rooted history is kept alive for everyone to experience.
Originating around 1225 as a small fishing port serving Tynemouth Priory, and this year in 2025 proudly celebrating its 800th birthday, North Shields is certainly not lacking in things to explore. Being it fascinating stories from local fishermen, historically significant sights such as the remains of Clifford’s Fort, through to prominent figures who called North Shields home, you could spend weeks here unearthing fascinating tales.
What though, if you only had one day? Fear not, get a taste of North Shields following this self-guided whistle-stop walking tour. Perfect for both fellow locals rediscovering their town, and visitors wanting to know what it’s all about, this walking tour is blending local history, fabulous food, and scenic mouth of Tyne views, leaving you wanting more, and rightly so.
Route Overview
Distance: 4 miles
Duration: 2 hours (excluding stops)
Terrain: Mostly flat, some cobbled streets near the Fish Quay, hilly descending to the Fish Quay and ascending to Northumberland Park
Walking Tour
With great transport links to the nearby Port of Tyne, Newcastle town centre, and surrounding areas, start your walk at the newly developed North Shields Interchange (1). Part of the currently still ongoing multi-million Ambition for North Shields redevelopment plan, the transport interchange, town square and Bedford Street have been transformed to welcoming spaces for visitors and locals alike. Feel free to spend some time here taking in your surroundings while grabbing your first foody treat of the day at one of the many independent bakeries or cafes, such as R Place, Warren’s Kitchen, or Pia’s Artisan Bakery.
Delicious pastry and hot drink in hand, head to the Riverside Embankment Walkway (2) for your first proper expansive view of the stunning mouth of the Tyne, and North Shields Low Town and Fish Quay. Having been a completely overgrown and unsightly bank with the steepest flights of stairs leading down to the town’s bustling Union Quay, the newly created step-free walkway has instantly transformed the look and feel of this crucial quayside link. This is not only for its stunning views and handy access to the Fish Quay, but also for its impact on health and well-being. You will always spot someone using the walkway for their daily exercise or making use of the many strategically placed benches taking in the tranquil views and landscaping, and soon the impressive sculpture of Mary Ann Macham breaking out of chains, representing her moment of freedom as she arrived in North Shields in 1831 fleeing enslavement in America by stowing away on a ship.
Arriving at North Shields Low Town (3), the oldest part of North Shields, once a maze of winding streets and alleyways home to many long gone dirty seedy drinking dens, make sure to stop and say hello to the Herring Girl (4). A monument commemorating the importance of women in the fishing industry, it is not only reminding us of the original herring girls, who followed the fishing fleet down the east coast of England from Scotland, but also the many fishwives and women working in smokehouses. Showing remarkable physical strength and resilience, processing, packing, carrying, and selling the catch brought in, all these remarkable women were, despite the deeply embedded seafaring superstitions, underpinning the success of the fishing industry and contributing significantly to the local economy.
Continue the route walking down Maitland’s Quay, along Union Quay, and past North Shields’ working Fish Quay (5). While admiring the mooring boats, stepping over fishing nets, and watching people going about their day fishing, walking their dog, or enjoying a leisurely meal along this stretch of the mouth of the Tyne, you can only imagine life along these shores hundreds of years ago. It would have been a hive of activity with thousands of people making their living from this busy port.
To find out what this looked like, make sure to stop at the Old Low Light (6). Once a leading light guiding ships through the treacherous mouth of the Tyne, it is now shining its light on the town’s important heritage and history as the local heritage centre. Here you will usually find an exhibition worth visiting, walks and talks worth attending, and local art worth exploring. While you’re there, climb the few steps to the balcony to enjoy a unique view of the river and Clifford’s Fort (7), the next stop on our walking tour.
Built in the 17th century to strengthen the defences of the mouth of the Tyne, little remains today, but some of the fort walls, gun embrasures, and mote site. The fort site spanned from what is now the Molten Building to the north, all the way to the Old Low Light’s courtyard to the south, with some of the surviving buildings now converted into fish curing houses, offices, and the Old Low Light itself.
Leaving this historic site, don’t forget to peek inside the various fishmongers lining the courtyard to admire the impressive array of fresh fish and seafood on offer, and maybe wet your appetite for a possible lunch stop later. Turning the corner past the walls of the architectural gem that is the Molten Building, head towards Fiddler’s Green (8), an impressive 10ft statue looking out to sea, to spend a moment commemorating the many North Shields fishermen lost at sea.
While processing all the impressions of the morning, head for a leisurely walk along Fish Quay Sands (9) and the adjoining walkway along the Black Middens, a set of notorious rocks wrecking many ships. If followed all the way, this walkway would lead you into Tynemouth, but you would like to head up one of the paths along the bank instead to enjoy another great vantage point of the mouth of the Tyne. As it’ll be time for lunch, you can either stop at Oxford Street Car Park to enjoy a snack from the Pen Bal Coffee van, or head back to the Low Town, where you’ll find an array of takeaway or sit-in lunch options, such as Lindisfarne Seafoods for kipper or crab sandwiches, Low Lights Tavern for most delicious pies, Waterfront for fish and chips, Molten Café for fantastic gelato, or any of the other great eateries along Union Quay for a mixture of different cuisines.
After lunch, head up the hill along Tanners Bank and cross the road into Northumberland Park (10), a tranquil oasis in the middle of town. The park you see today was regenerated in 2012, but there has been a park here since 1885, which has been enjoyed as a public green space ever since. This historic Victorian park has so much to offer and is so beautifully looked after, you could spend hours exploring the beautiful flower beds, herb garden, pond, and intriguing Medieval hospital site, or get lost walking the Himalayan Dene and various woodland paths. It is worth checking out The New Friends of Northumberland Park’s website for events and activities.
Leaving this gorgeous green space via the Tynemouth Road entrance, head briefly east along the main road before taking Hudson Street to get to the corner of Tyne Street, where you pass the oldest pub of the borough with a female figure in front, a ‘Wooden Dolly’ (11), one of many in North Shields. Originally figureheads of local shipwrecks, these figures have been a feature of the town for over 200 years.
Continuing your way along Tyne Street, you’ll be passing the beautiful Trinity Buildings as well as Beacon House, which was the original High Light guiding ships safely along the river. It was replaced by the New High Light (12) across the road in 1807, which in turn was decommissioned in the 1990s and is now a private home. Spend a moment here to appreciate the surroundings. Can you spot North Shields’ hidden fishscape, or the statue of one of our famous residents, Stan Laurel? That is indeed one half of the comedy duo Laurel and Hardy, who lived on Dockwray Square in late 1800. It is said the steps leading down the bank from Dockwray Square inspired the famous piano scene in the duo’s film “The Music Box”.
Keep heading along Tyne Street until you reach the top of the Riverside Embankment Walkway again, and take one last panoramic glance over North Shields’ stunning riverside before heading up through Howard Street (13) towards Northumberland Square. Built in the 18th century during Britain’s Georgian era, both developments were seen as the flagship of the New Town, and today, well over 200 years later, we can still enjoy the elegant architecture of what is now the Cultural Quarter. Many creative ventures have chosen this area to be their home, so you will find galleries, workshops, as well as vintage sellers here. The recently redeveloped Northumberland Square (14) surrounded by stunning Georgian terraces is a particularly beautiful and tranquil space, and a perfect last stop on this walking tour, where you can sit back, relax your tired feet, and plan your evening adventures.
If you don’t need to rush off, we would highly recommend ending your day in North Shield in one of the fantastic New Town bars. Great places aplenty, making a choice will be difficult, so you could consider The Exchange 1856, Chalet 86, The Two Pennies, Baba Yagas, and many more.
Local Insider Tips
If you’re intrigued to find out even more about North Shields and explore this wonderful town further, we would highly recommend following North Shields Heritage Trail or the Blue Plaque Walk on your next visit.
For any vintage and second hand lovers, you won’t be disappointed in North Shields. Check out the many independent stores and charity shops to be found along Howard as well as Bedford Street.
North Shields is constantly changing and developing. Keep your finger on the pulse by following @ilovenorthshields and @northshields_people on Instagram and never miss the latest bar, café or restaurant openings, get news about exciting local projects before anyone else, and stay updated on local events you don’t want to miss.
We hope you enjoyed exploring North Shields with us. We’d love to hear your experience and are intrigued to know what else you may have discovered on your trip. Share your story with us on Instagram @ilovenorthshields or email us on ilovenorthshields@outlook.com.
